The Past Three Weeks…..

have been very rough but it’s getting better now. We finally received our permanent residency three days ago and will never need to go to the immigration office again. Our exit document had to be stamped leaving and entering Mexico and that was an ordeal in itself. Thousands of Mexican Americans travel south in December and the lines at the immigration office are long. We waited in line 1.5 hours leaving and 3.5 hours entering Mexico.

And that’s just the Mexican side. American customs agents made us get out of the RV and thoroughly searched it including the engine compartment. We regularly read about stupido gringos who try to smuggle drugs into the US in their RV. We have been through this before and I am getting used to having a border policeman chat me up with lots of friendly questions while the others search. I think they are looking for nervousness or a lie.

We made the drive to Tucson two weeks ago and stayed at De Anza RV Resort in Amado about 35 miles south of Tucson. It’s expensive but most RV parks have raised their prices sky high the past few years and De Anza is about the nicest park we have ever stayed in, as far as commercial parks go. Our very favorite park overall is Catalina State Park in Oro Valley but it’s impossible to get a site during the winter unless reservations are made well in advance. Our doctors have all been in that far northwest part of Tucson but now we are changing doctors to get as far south as we can.

Nothing went right in Tucson. I had ordered a new camera lens for pickup at a locker and Amazon returned it three days before my expiration date of pickup. We were actually driving to the locker when I got the notification.

There was not one single Apple laptop in stock in all of Tucson. That means there is incompatibility between my phone and laptop and I can’t access my blogging site on my laptop nor the pictures that I take with my phone. It really stinks that Apple does this. It happened the first week of October. I am hoping laptops are in stock the end of January when we go back up for the never ending doctor appointments.

When we returned to San Carlos the visits to immigration began again. One person there had told us to come back for fingerprinting and so we did the usual take a number and wait. But no, the new supervisor said we have to wait for an email that never came. Long story short, we drove almost two hundred miles round trip to the immigration office in Hermosillo and walked out permanent residents.

But one enormous bonus to all of the hours waiting at the immigration office is that I met a well known woman named Rosa who helps North Americans with administrative matters. I told her about the iffy situation of taking the RV south of the free zone and she guaranteed that we could because we have a 10 year permit and it’s valid no matter our status now. And just to be sure, she went to the agency in charge of vehicle permits, Banjercito, and they confirmed her answer to me was correct. Fingers crossed that we will go south about February 1st.

Obtaining Mexican Residency…….

……the hard way, by ourselves, without expert help. Never again, no way, no how.

We started this process in 2017 when we went to the Mexican consulate in Tucson with all of our papers, including financials. We met the qualifications for permanent residency immediately but opted for the 4 year temporary residency so that we could take our motor home south of the free zone.

The most western and northern part of the state of Sonora is referred to as the free zone, in that we are allowed to keep our US plated vehicles here. But we can only take them as far south as Empalme, about 20 miles from here. However, as a temporary resident we can get a 6 month vehicle permit for our car and drive it south or better yet, a 10 year temporary import permit for our motor home. Unfortunately, once we become permanent residents we can’t obtain a vehicle permit at all.

Getting temporary residency entails multiple visits to the immigration (INM) office in Guaymas, 14 miles from our home. Initially, only a one year temporary is given. One year later, people can get either the 2nd year by itself or apply and pay for three years altogether. The process requires pictures, fees paid at a bank, and multiple visits to the immigration office.

Our four years will be over December 6th and we have been sad about that because it means we can’t take the motorhome to Mazatlan, Puerto Vallarta and anywhere else in Mexico. I went back and forth on whether to give up on residency and run to the border every 6 months for a visitor permit but decided against it.

Therefore, a few weeks ago we went to a photo shop to get pictures to begin the process of applying for permanent residency. Application cannot be started more than 30 days before the expiration of temporary residency. We had to go to Tucson two weeks ago and so we waited until Monday, a week ago today. A few days before that I read some comments on a Mexican Expat forum that going from temporary to permanent is very easy, requiring just one visit to the immigration office and people walk out with their permanent card. Not in Guaymas as we were soon to learn!

So we made the 28 mile round trip to the immigration office last Monday. Office closed. No reason. It wasn’t a holiday.

Tuesday – Back again except we arrived there at 1:15 and they don’t let people in after 1:00 because it takes at least one hour for each person. But the guard spoke to someone and made an exception since she had seen us there the day before. Take a number and wait and wait on the most uncomfortable benches imaginable. We thought we were ahead of the game because we found the appropriate form online to complete. Wrong. There were more forms to fill out to be returned the next day. Also, we had to go to the bank and pay the permanent residency fee of about $260 US each and bring back the receipt. Steve couldn’t get into the bank across the street it was so busy, so he walked 3 blocks to another bank and returned an hour later. Wait again. Back to the counter and the official made many copies and stamped everything.

Wednesday – Back with the other forms. Then the immigration official said it would be two weeks before we got our card because all the paperwork goes to Hermosillo. And since they took our temporary card away I mentioned we had to go to Tucson in a week and what would we use. Oh no! Big problem! We can’t leave the country while the process is ongoing. But, they would issue an exit letter for us and to return Friday to pick it up.

Thursday – Thanksgiving with friends listening to the ocean waves.

Friday – Long long wait again until our turn. I tried to horn in and get our letter but no, now it’s not possible to get a letter. Why, I don’t know. Instead they would speed up our paperwork for permanent. We were to return on Tuesday, do some more paperwork and then drive to Hermosillo to pick up our card. From there we would just go to Tucson a day early. Came home. Phone rang. Immigration. Sorry, but the immigration offices will be closed the entire following week because the officials have been called to fly to Guatemala in the morning for migrant processing at the southern border. Come back and we will give you an exit letter. That was another process that was just as involved and complicated as getting the initial temporary residency. First we needed photos. Aha, we have those that we thought we needed but then we didn’t need them but now we do. Go to the bank again with their form and pay a fee. This time it took 90 minutes until Steve got back. Wait our turn again. Then the letter and paperwork to go along with it took us until well past closing time. The INM official smiles and says the next time he sees us it will be easy. He will just hand us our card and say goodbye.

But it was a very worthwhile wait because I met the lady many people in San Carlos use to get their residency and do other legal matters. I told her our problem of now not being able to take the motorhome farther south in Mexico. She said we can because we already have the 10 year permit and it’s not expired. That this is what boaters also have that are residents. She is sure of it. And we just went through 4 years of temporary residency and didn’t need to!

Monday (today) – Immigration calls again and says sorry but they forgot to get the initial application fee from us and please return right away. The lady on the phone repeated several times that the fee is 114 pesos. About $5 US. I quickly looked in my wallet and had more than enough. Even though the INM office is closed, the guard was expecting us to pick up the form to take to the dreaded bank. Except the forms said 1410 pesos each. I didn’t have the cash. No sweat. The bank has an ATM. But Steve doesn’t like the bank across the street so we drove the 3 busiest blocks in Guaymas to the bank he does like. But their ATM was out of money. On to another bank, the one we northerners normally won’t use because they charge a very high commission and processing charge to buy pesos with our US debit card. The line was out of sight for their ATM’s. Long wait. I see Steve through the window leave the ATM machine with his credit card in hand. No money of course. He was so frazzled he tried to use a credit card instead of his debit card. Back in line. Just to get $200 dollars worth of pesos cost $8.50 US in fees. Then back to the other bank to pay the fee for INM. That took 45 minutes. Back to INM. This time the lady says that after we return from Tucson to come back and get fingerprinted. I said we already had fingerprints 4 years ago. It doesn’t matter. We must do them again. Also she looked in our file and said she doesn’t need those extra forms. Back home and phone is off the hook so we can get ready to go to Tucson day after tomorrow.

One last note: Other than the back office lady who called us, not one person spoke one word of English and we don’t speak Spanish, Everything had to be done using the translate app on our phones.

How We Like Living In San Carlos So Far

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I want to let my readers know we are fine in San Carlos, Mexico and have absolutely no regrets about our decision to buy a house here.  We have been here long enough now that I can give you some plusses and minuses and thought I would mention a few.

Minuses:

Scorpions and other insects. We have had two scorpions in the house and a few more outside. They scare me. Everyone sprays regularly with an insecticide inside and out, and regretfully we have started doing that too. One neighbor has lived here 40 years and says he has been bitten twice and was very ill.

There is not a real downtown with a city center and nice architecture.

That it is difficult to find vegetarian or healthy meals in any restaurants……that I know of.

Not very responsive government entities for infrastructure problems that the town has such as water or sewer leaks and water shutoffs with no explanation as to why or even when the water will be back on. We have not been personally inconvenienced with these issues but many others have. The fact that most of our property tax money goes to Guaymas instead of taking care of San Carlos doesn’t seem fair but I hear Guaymas, which San Carlos is really just a suburb of, is broke.

Plusses:

Natural beauty with the prettiest sea colors I have ever seen. Some days the water is deep blue, some days turquoise and other times light aquamarine.  There is an overlook (Mirador) here from which National Geographic named the view one of the 10 best in the world.

The year around warm to hot weather with blue skies.  The majority of the northerners leave in the summer due to the high heat and humidity but we decided to try and stay through one summer to know if it is really uncomfortable. Mid-June is the time when the humidity kicks in and it has but I love it. I can’t get over how we live in the desert with such a dry climate all winter and spring and now the air feels exactly like the tropics. Fabulous! But we have been told July will be hotter and more humid, August more so, and September too, with the heat and humidity finally breaking about mid-October. So ask me again in September how I am loving it!

It is so much less expensive to own a house here than in the U.S.  From property taxes to insurance, to utilities; we are saving so much money I think we could take a South Pacific cruise every year if we wanted to. And groceries! So affordable, but mostly for “from scratch” cooking items. Processed foods are as high as in the US.  Vegetables are fresh, plentiful, and so cheap. At the same time, we are now finding almost anything we want which wasn’t the case in years past farther south in Mexico. Some of the stores even have sections with imported German, Italian, Chinese etc. foods.  And finding items like chia seeds, quinoa, tofu and so on are no problem.

Being able to obtain our US mail here. We use a mail service in Tucson and usually someone goes north at least once a week and picks up the mail to drop off at the Remax realty office in San Carlos which is very convenient to us.

San Carlos has almost everything we need but when it doesn’t, the larger city of Guaymas is only 10 miles away. This is where we go to Home Depot, Walmart, Sam’s Club, and anything else we can’t get in San Carlos.

Feeling healthier with clean air.  No allergies or respiratory problems for me here and being at sea level I feel much better. My oxygen level is now 96-97 compared to 91-92 in Colorado. We have some friends from Colorado that bought a place in San Carlos the same time we did and the oxygen levels situation is the same as mine.

Many many restaurants to eat out inexpensively but at the same time, not healthy but quite tasty!

It is so easy and inexpensive to get work done. Landscaping, plumbing, sealing the roof, you name it.  We had to have a tree cut down and removed. Cost? The equivalent of $12 US. In the US it would have cost a couple of hundred dollars.

Very friendly people, all nationalities included.

Watching and looking at boats. There have been some fishing tournaments recently and the boats take off in the bay in front of our house and with two large marinas in town we can look at boats all we want.

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And there may be more plusses coming up, some of it is hearsay and some have been reported in our local forums and the news.  A small hospital might be built just outside of town. An assisted care facility might also be built on the waterfront in San Carlos. There is more development planned and real estate sales have picked up so the economy is turning around after several years of the downturn that the US experienced.  And another big news item is that Guaymas, which has a shortage of water for the growing city, is planning to build a water desalination plant.

I am sure we will encounter more negatives along the way, but the positives will continue to be in the majority.

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